Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Living in Berlin x interview 022 fashion designer - Thomas



Thomas,服裝設計師,目前在柏林有兩間店Thatchers,分別位於Mitte 以及 Prenzlauer Berg.
Thomas is a fashion designer, who has 2  shops - Thatchers which located in Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg.

為什麼在柏林?
Why did you move to Berlin?

我來自科隆附近的城市,因為唸書的關係來到柏林,然後就在這裡一直住下來了。
I came from a city near Cologne. I moved to Berlin because of study, and then I just stay here since then.

喜歡柏林嗎?
Do you like Berlin?

喜歡啊。我是在80年代來到這裡,當時的柏林和現在完全不同,身為年輕人的那時候,每天晚上就是開心的去迪斯可跳舞,現在年紀比較長了,觀點變了,喜歡柏林的理由也不一樣了,但這是一個不停在發生改變的城市。雖然這個城市現在已經不像之前那麼的便宜,也有許多人不喜歡這些改變,但是比起其他大城市,巴黎等等,這裡的物價雖然提高了,但是還是很不錯的。
Yes, I like it. I came here in the early 80s, the Berlin looked totally different. As a young man at that time, I went to discos almost every night. Now I am getting older, the perspective of this city changes as well, but it is a city that keep changing. Though everything is getting expensive and lots of changes that many people don’t like it. But when you compare Berlin with other capitals like Paris, here is still affordable.


有什麼可以推薦給我們的柏林景點媽?
Do you have any tips for Berlin?

文化方面:我是一個非常喜歡看戲的人,而柏林有很多的劇院,各種大小,各種類型。我個人推薦: Deutsches Theater, Sophiensäle, Schaubühne.
自然方面:柏林有很多的綠地,雖然是個大城市,但是你可以很容易接近大自然,我最喜歡Tiergarten,他是這麼大也這麼美,規劃得很好的一個大公園。
跳蚤市場:柏林也有很多各式各樣的跳蚤市場,可以在那裡挖到各式各樣有的沒的東西。最近又會
有一個夏日市集開始, Nowkoelln Flowmarkt ,在禮拜日。
Culture : I loves theater! and there are many theaters that you can visit, in every size and every kind. I personally recommend Deutsches Theater, Sophiensäle, and Schaubühne.
Nature : Berlin is a metropolis with lots of green. It is easy to reach nature. I like Tiergarten the most, it is such a big, beautiful, well planed park.
Flea market : There are many flea markets in Berlin where you can find all kind of stuff useful or not. The summer market will soon be back: - Nowkoelln Flowmarkt every second Sunday.





你是怎麼開始這個職業的?
How did you start this career?

我來到柏林是因為唸書的緣故。後來發現自己喜歡服裝設計這個領域以後,變轉換了跑道,一開始是在劇院做服裝設計的工作。然後遇到了我的夥伴 Ralf Hensellek,我們一起建立了這個品牌,然後開始一邊劇院的工作,同時也經營自己的品牌。由於在劇院工作需要很多的討論,一旦人很多的時候,這個討論往往會拖得很長,於是後來我們就決定專注在自己的品牌上,做自己的設計。中間我也有一段時間旅居在泰國和一些亞洲國家, 不止開了眼界,也進行了很多實驗性的設計。
I came to Berlin to study. But I realized later that I like fashion Design, so I changed the route and started to work in the theater for costume. Later I met a partner, Ralf Hensellek, we founded this brand - Thatchers.  I kept working in the theater and our own brand for a while. Working in theater means you need to have lots of discussions with many people for every detail, and it takes a long time. Therefore, later we decided to focus on our own brand. For this reason, I lived in Thailand and some countries in Asia for a while. It was quite an eye-opener and I made a lot of experimental Design during the time.



你的靈感來源?
What influenced your work?

我很喜歡閱讀/電影/戲劇/舞蹈/音樂。他們全都是我的靈感來源。
音樂的部分我很喜歡聽 Joni Mitchell, Bach, Neneh Cherry, and David Bowie the most.
電影的話:我很喜歡這些導演:Quentin Tarantino, Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Pedro Almodóvar  以及拍攝了Pina這部電影的 Wim Wenders
舞蹈的話,Pina Bausch影響我很多,我還記得我17歲的時候在Wuppertal第一次看到他的表演,我整個被折服。這附近有一個還有舞蹈工作室兼劇場 - DOCK 11 & EDEN,他們也非常的有意思。
I enjoy reading, watching movies, going to theater for drama and dance and listening to music. They are all inspirations for me.
Music : I like Joni Mitchell, Bach, Neneh Cherry, and David Bowie the most.
Film : Here are some directors that I like, such as Quentin Tarantino, Rainer Werner  Fassbinder, Pedro Almodóvar Caballero and Wim Wenders, who shoot the film, Pina.
Dance : Pina Bausch has a great effect on me. I still can recalled the first time I saw her performance in Wuppertal, I was so impressed and into her dance. DOCK 11 & EDEN is a dance studio and theater near here, they are also very interesting.


這個工作有什麼喜歡的地方和不喜歡的地方媽?
Is there anything that you like or dislike while working?

很喜歡在挑選布料,還有進行組合的時候。那一個上衣適合哪一件褲子,這個裙子配哪一個飾品比較好,我很喜歡進行這個工作。不喜歡的大概就是跟錢有相關的吧,擔心不夠的收入和處理稅的問題。
I like choosing the new fabrics and match different items, I enjoy making the combinations, like this pants can go well with the shirt, and that top can match the accessory.  What I don’t like is probably all about money, not enough income or tax, haha.





設計的時候,什麼是你最在意的或者是挑戰呢?
What is most important or even a challenge for you when designing?

其實主題性強的衣服反而比較容易設計,舞台或是劇場的衣服因為主題性很明顯,所以相對比較容易。對我來說比較大的挑戰在於設計出適合日常生活中穿的,簡單,卻又不會無聊的衣服。讓人看到時候會想,阿,這件很好看,我平常就可以穿。
To be honest, the clothes with strong topics are easier to design, such as the costume for stage or theater. For me, the challenge is to design something that customers can and will wear in daily life, which are simple but not boring. It would be great when people see the clothes and think : ah, this one looks good, and I can imagine wearing this in normal case.

這點我覺得你做得很好啊,因為我看了一下店裡的衣服幾乎都是單色的,簡單的剪裁就會有特別的布料或是特別的裝飾,每一件都只有一個重點。
I think you did a good job about this. Because I have looked around the shop and many of them are only color. When the style is simple, you use special fabric or decoration with it, vice versa. Each piece has one highlight.

這點也是我很在意的,我希望每一件衣服都只有一個主題,因為衣服還是要能夠帶出穿的人的個人特色才行。
This is also what I care. I want every cloth has only one highlight, because the most important thing is to show the personal character.



店裡面也有一些不同設計師的設計品,你是怎麼挑選這些東西的?
You also sell different design from other designers, is there any principle while choosing?

大前提當然是要適合這間店的風格。我很喜歡手工的東西,也喜歡有趣的東西,我會去尋找有趣的主題,或是有趣的手法。在我的店裡面販售的設計品,大部分也都不容易在其他店裡找到。
Of course it must match the style of my shop, objects to complement Thatchers fashion, give an idea of the Thatchers philosophy of fun in life. There are many handmade design and interesting things here. I look for design that has an interesting topic or is made in an unusual wayMost of the products I sell in my shop are not easy to be found in other shops.


你投入這個工作已經超過20年了,我相信一定有好的時間也有壞的時間,是什麼動力讓你能夠一直堅持這個工作,一直努力下去?
You have worked in this job for over 20 years. I believe you must have some good time and hard time. So, what keeps you moving forward and sticking it out

我想要讓生活更美麗一點。我想我可以幫上一點忙。當我每天看著新聞的時候,世界上各種問題,例如近期的俄羅斯啊,烏克蘭等等,真的會讓人覺得這個世界很絕望,也很傷心。我希望我設計的,可以為這個世界帶來一點美麗。
I want to make the life more beautiful. I think I can help about this part. When I watch the news everyday, there are all sorts of problems in the world, such as the conflict in Ukraine and Russia. It does make me feel despair and sad. I hope what I design can bring a little bit more beauty for this world.


你有什麼建議可以給決定要自己創業的人嗎?
Do you have any suggestion for people who want to start their own career?

知道自己想要做什麼以後,就要看看現在已經有什麼,沒有什麼,然後嘗試去從中間做出一些什麼,有趣的,可以吸引人的,這聽起來很像市場規劃,但我認為這的確是如此。
If you already know what you want to do, then you need to find out what has existed or not in the market. And try to create something new, interesting and attractive. I know it sounds like a theory for marketing plan, but it is so.



Thatchers


thatchers shop open: 11:00 - 19:00 hours

Kastanienallee 21, Prenzlauer Berg
and
Hackesche höfe, Rosenthaler str 40/4, Mitte

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Sunday, March 9, 2014

蘇格蘭高地之旅 Highlands, Scotland #003 Hello animals! 動物特集!


雖然標題說是動物特輯,不過其實也只有兩種啦,哈哈
就是親愛的鹿與大頭高地牛!
Though the title is Hello animals, but they are just two kinds, haha.
dear deer and big head Highland cattle!



然後就是頭超級大但是又超級可愛的高地牛!
then comes the super lovely Highland cattle with super big head!!!








  



最後一張是用我的頭當比例尺證明,他們的頭真的很大!
the last one is to show you how big their heads are!!!

Highlands, Scotland.


Friday, March 7, 2014

Living in Berlin x interview 021: a shop where you can find cozy and lovely clothes


Mina,德國人,父母來自韓國。目前有自己的品牌:Mandutrap,以及一個店面位在Kreuzberg,KleiderSchrank mode & möbel。
Mina comes from Korea but was born and grew up in Germany. She has moved to Berlin for about 8 years. Now she has her own brand, Mandutrap, and a mode shop located in Kreuzberg, KleiderSchrank mode & möbel.


為什麼在柏林?
Why did you move to Berlin?

在德國北部的小鎮長大,然後在漢堡的一所應用科學大學(Fachhochschule)唸書,有兩個學期回到在韓國的家鄉 - 首爾唸書,非常喜歡在那裡的生活,所以畢業之後也想要繼續在大城市裡生活,於是就來到了柏林。
I grew up in a small town in north Germany. Later I moved to Hamburg because of my education in FH (Fachhochschule).I have lived in Seoul, my hometown in Korea, for 2 semesters to study. I enjoy the atmosphere and surrounding to live in big city. Therefore, after graduation, I decided to move to the capital, Berlin. So, here I am.

喜歡柏林嗎?
Do you like Berlin?

喜歡啊。來了七八年,還是喜歡這裡。但是當然也有不喜歡的地方,例如說沒太陽的冬天,灰灰的天空,路上喝醉酒或是一些古怪的人上門來問些奇怪問題,哈哈哈。
I like it. Though I’ve been here for almost 8 years, but I still like this city. Of course there will be some time that I don’t like here, for example, the winter without sunshine but the gray sky, the drunk people on the street and weird people who came into my shop with some bizarre questions.  

有什麼可以推薦給我們的柏林景點媽?
Do you have any tips for Berlin?

這問題真是有點難,住在這裡就不會特別去做什麼事情啊。
The question is quite hard. I think, when you live here, you won’t really do some special things.
不過我還滿喜歡Tempelhofer Feld,夏天的時候非常迷人,那是一個很大的地方,有很多人在那裡進行各種運動,或者放風箏,烤肉,非常的舒服。
But I like Tempelhofer Feld, it’s a charming and big place. Lots of people do sports , fly the kite, BBQ or do other activities. It’s really lovely.
還有就是Maybachufer,這裡除了有市集以外,沒有市集的時候沿著河岸走景色也很美麗。
And I also like to go to Maybachufer. You can visit the week market there, and the scene along the riverbank is also very beautiful.


所以簡單來說你的移動範圍都還是在Neukölln和Kreuzberg囉?
So your daily life is based on Neukölln and Kreuzberg?

是啊。
Yes.

你有覺得危險或不安全嗎?
Do you ever feel dangerous or not safe?

不會啊,我覺得很安全,我到目前為止都一直居住在這一個區塊,還沒遇過什麼可怕的事情,因為這裡就算是夜裡也很多人在路上,所以沒什麼好害怕的。
No. I feel quite safe. I ‘ve been lived in this area since I came to Berlin. I haven’t met any dangerous situation, because there are always lots of people fool around, even in the night. There is nothing to be afraid.



那來談談你的店好了,你是為什麼會走上服裝設計這條路?
Let’s talk about your shop, what lead you do be a mode designer?

我是念傳達設計(Communication design)的,但是我同時也有修服裝設計(Fashion Design)的課程,畢業後就漸漸地往這個方向走了。
I studied Communication Design in school, but I also took some classes from Fashion Design. After graduation, my passion leads me to this direction.

在你自己開店之前,你有身為服裝設計師在別人的店裡工作過嗎?
Did you ever work by other people as a Fashion designer before you have your own shop?
作為一個服裝設計師沒有。畢業以後有在別人的公司擔任汽車的平面設計,也有在一間大公司裡面擔任平面與服裝設計師的實習生,其實我可以在那裡繼續工作,從那裡開始成為一個正式的設計師。但是因為唸書時期打過很多不同種類的工,很清楚為別人的公司工作是什麼樣的模式,但我想為自己工作。我想大概在我15歲的時候,就已經想要以後自己當老闆了。As a Fashion designer? No. After graduation, I had worked as a graphic designer in a car company, and in a big company as an intern (Fashion and Graphic Designer) for a while. I could just be a fashion designer there, but I decided to work for myself. When I  was still a student, I had a lot of different part time jobs. Thus I know how it works to work for other people. I think, I already knew that I want to be my own boss when I was 15 years old. 

那你有設定目標族群或者是什麼底線媽?
Then do you have a target grope or any limitation for yourself?

沒有誒。我就是做我自己喜歡的衣服,沒有設定族群,而我的族群類別非常的廣泛,從20到60的人都有。很多時候同一個剪裁,因為不同布料的運用,買的族群就會有很大的差異。透過跟顧客的溝通,我知道顧客喜歡什麼樣的類型,什麼樣的衣服,然後當然也必須要去適時地做調整。不過我還是會一直做我喜歡的,發展新的樣式,畢竟我才是設計師。
No. I just design and make the clothes that I like. I didn’t have a target group and my clients are also very different, from 20 to 60 olds are all possible. The clients can be totally different when I use the same style but different fabrics. Through direct communication with clients, I knew the favorite of my clients, and I will make some adjustments in time. But I still keep designing what I like and develop new style, since I am the designer.

完全沒有想過設底線這件事情,當然有銷售好也有銷售差的時候,但是我一路這樣走來一直都在經營的狀況都不斷得變得更好。
I never thought about limitation. Definitely there are good seasons and bad seasons, but it keeps moving forward. 





除了在店裡面你還有在哪裡販售你的商品嗎?
Where else do you sell your products?

我有Dawanda,還有Etsy兩個網路商店。但是在網路上賣出的商品類型和店裡會有差異。網路上購買的人相對就會購買比較多飾品,但是在店裡面就是洋裝和衣服這些比較好。除此之外我也固定參加市集,Markthalle Neun 大概每個月都有市集,我每個月都會去擺攤。 另外就是Holy Shit Shopping Berlin設計聖誕市集,雖然參加的費用頗高,但是非常值得,因為來的人潮非常非常的多,除了可以賣出許多商品以外,也是建立品牌的好機會。
I have two online shops, one is in Dawanda, and the other one is Etsy. Most people will buy decoration or accessories in the internet, but people who came to my shop  buy mostly clothes and dresses. The difference is very big. Besides I keep attending markets. Markthalle Neun is a monthly market where you can found me every month. The other big one is the Holy Shit Shopping Berlin – The Design Christmas Market. Though the fee is really high but it does worth, because I got really tons of clients. It is a good chance to sell products and build my brand in the same time.

你喜歡擺市集嗎?
Then do you like to work in market?

哈哈,說不上喜歡,因為其實是一件很疲累工作啊。必須把店裡上架的衣服打包,然後掛上去,然後再打包,在掛上,但是可以和很多人交流當然也是很好的一件事情,我在那裡也認識了許多朋友。
Haha. To be honest I won’t say I enjoy in it because I have lots to do. I need to pack all the clothes from shop to the market, and after the market I need to pack them again and put them on the clothes hangers in the shop again. But it’s also good to communicate with many people and I also get lots of friend there.


KleiderSchrank mode & möbel

Falckensteinstr.33
10997 Berlin

Winter Wed - Sat : 12.00-18.00
Sommer Tue - Sat : 12.00-19.00




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9.3.2014 

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Thursday, March 6, 2014

蘇格蘭高地之旅 Highlands, Scotland #002 Eilean Donan Castle


這是個觀光客喜歡的觀光景點 --- Eilean Donan Castle.
This is the top tourist attraction for tourist in Highlands, Scotland - Eilean Donan Castle.

導遊先生說,夏天的時候滿滿都是遊客,你根本拍不到沒有人的照片。
所以非旅遊旺季旅遊的第一個好處就是:你可以在沒有人的地方觀光,拍沒有人的照片。
Our tourist guide said, in Sommer it's full of people, you can't take photo without people in it.
THUS, the first advantage to travel not in the hot season is : 
You can travel without crowded and get the photos without other tourists.



以上是傍晚的時候拍的,以下是早晨的時後拍的。
photos above were taken around 17:00.
photos below were taken around 10:00. 




 Eilean Donan Castle ,Highlands, Scotland


Thursday, February 27, 2014

蘇格蘭高地之旅 Highland, Scotland #001之 層層疊疊


冬天的蘇格蘭高地,白茫茫的,又濕又冷
沒看到風景明信片上的藍天,也沒有像鏡子一樣反射的湖泊,
但是白茫茫又霧茫茫的我好喜歡。

挑出來了第一個系列 - 層層疊疊。
寬闊無比的高原,公路上的風景一直換,山景和荒野交疊。

I went to highland in Scotland in winter. white, wet and cold. I didn't see the blue sky or the lake like mirror in every postcard, but I like it as well, white and unclear.

This is the first series - layers.








Get them here!

Monday, February 3, 2014

Letterpress #002: about Movable type and linocut

更新一下最近的進度
除了原本的鉛字印刷的練習(排版以及色彩)
也開始增加另一種凸版印刷的練習- linocut(deutsch:linolschnitt)












喜歡他們請來這裡看他們 
See more photos here:

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Living in Berlin x interview 20: a mother and the education for her children



賀蕾,來自中國長沙,住在柏林超過十年,目前是幸福的全職家庭主婦。
He Lei comes from Chángshā, China. She has lived in Berlin for over 10 years. Now she is a happy housewife.



為什麼來柏林?
Why did you move to Berlin?

我在北京工作並與先生在北京結婚定居,一切都很好,但是因為工作過於繁忙,所以先生並沒有太多時間可以陪小孩,後來經過許多討論,為了家庭的緣故,所以決定全家一起搬回柏林,辭去工作的以後,我就開始成為全職的家庭婦女。
I worked and got married in Beijing, and everything was fine. But the overload with work for my husband led to the result that he did not have enough time to spend with kids. Thus, after many times of discussion, we decided to move back to Berlin. I quitted my job and became a housewife.

喜歡柏林嗎?
Do you like Berlin?

喜歡啊。在這裡生活很舒服,雖然自己是外國人,但是這裡的包容性很強,你走在路上不太會被行注目禮,就算是我們住的這區比較少亞洲人,但是也不太會有德國人一直盯著你看。而且在這裡你可以感受得到,德國的開放,雖然大家常說柏林不是德國,或許是因為這裡更加開放吧。之前求學的時候曾經住在瑞士一年多,是一個很小的小鎮,我可能是那裡唯一一個亞洲人吧,所以對於保守和開放的風氣感受非常的深。
I like Berlin. It’s really comfortable to live here. Although I’m a foreigner, but the city has great tolerance. People won’t stare at you all the time, even we live in an area without many Asian. You can feel the liberty and open minded of Berlin. Though people always say, Berlin is not Germany. But I think it is because it is more open. As I was a student, I had lived in a small town in Switzerland for a year. It is really a small town, I was probably the only Asian there. Therefore, I can tell the difference between conservative and open. 

而且這裡有柏林基督華人教會,在教會的生活可以讓人生變得更豐富啊,我很感謝上帝為我們安排了一個教會,雖然教會不完美,但是當人定睛在上帝,一切的不完美都會變成祝福,變成恩典。當我現在回想過往的人生,一切都有上帝的保守在裡面。
Besides, I go to church. The life in the church makes my life more abundant, I thank God that he has prepared a church for us. Though church is never perfect, but when you only focus on God, all the imperfectness will trun into blessing, and then become grace. When I looked back in my life, God is always with me.


你可以聊聊你對小孩們的家庭教育是怎樣的嗎?
Can you talk about the home education?

還在北京的時候因為工作的緣故,接觸的人幾乎都是德國人,或是有德國配偶的人,在那個時候覺得給小孩全德文環境也不是什麼壞事,畢竟他們絕大部份之後都會在德國生活,但是來到柏林半年,我感受到了這樣不行,因為只是短短半年我的兩個孩子幾乎就不說中文了。他們雖然在這裡長大,但是你可以看得出來他們是混血兒,這和自我認同其實有很大的關係。我們從他們小時候就告訴他們,你們是混血兒,一半德國人,一半中國人。我希望他們不要忘記自己另外一半的血緣來自哪裡,一旦他們不說中文,不學中文,他們也就失去和另外一半的自己還有親戚的關係了。
When I was working in Beijing, I worked with German or people who have marriage with German. At that time, I did not see any problem that the children stay in an all German surrounding, because most of them will live in Germany sooner or later. But when we moved to Berlin for about 6 months, I found something wrong, my children didn’t speak Chinese anymore. Though they were grown up here, but you can see that they are multiracial, and it has a lot to do with the Self-concept. We told them since they were still young, that you are half-German and half-Chinese. I hope they won’t forget half of them are from China. Once they don’t speak Chinese or learn Chinese, they will lose the connection with half part of themselves.

所以在家中,我和他們說話一律說中文,小朋友是很聰明的,他們會自己切換不同的聲道和不同的人說話,所以和我說話他們說中文,和爸爸就說德文。
Thus, when we are home, I talk with both kids in Chinese, and they talk with their father in German. Kids are really smart, they will change the channel to different people.

那你覺得在德國跟在中國在教育上有什麼差別嗎?
Then, what is the different about education in China and in Germany?

在德國不論是做媽媽還是做孩子都應該比在中國要幸福許多,這裡提供可以和孩子一起待的圖書館,一起瘋的遊樂場,或是一起運動的游泳池等各樣的課外活動場所以及活動,沒有做不完的作業以及考試。在中國好像只有學校以及永遠做不完的功課。相對的,德國的家長和學校給孩子太多的自由和輕鬆,彷彿是怕累著了孩子們似的。若是能取之精華,棄之糟粕,這樣的合乎中道,應該就是智慧的教育孩子了吧。
I think, in Germany, parents and children alike lead their lives much more happily than their counterparts in China. Here provides many activities for whole family to participate. For example: libraries for family to read together, the playground to have fun, and space for different sports, such as swimming pools….. etc. Children don’t have countless homework and exams.  In China, the life of students are filled with school life and tons of assignments. However, I think that the schools and parents in Germany sometimes give children too much freedom and free time. It seems that they don’t want to make kids feel tired. The wise way for me to teach the kids is to take the essence discard the dregs from both countries.



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Living in Berlin 
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